Going tubeless at home sounds intimidating and mostly isn't. With the right kit and a bit of patience, most riders can convert a wheelset in under half an hour. Here's the honest, step-by-step version.
What you'll need
- Tubeless-ready rims and tyres
- Rim tape (the right width for your rim)
- Tubeless valves
- Magic Milk Tubeless-Pro Hi-Fibre sealant
- A track pump (or, ideally, a tubeless charger / small compressor for the initial seat)
- A sealant injector and a core-removal tool
Step by step
- Tape the rim. Clean it, then apply rim tape tightly with no bubbles, covering the whole bed and one spoke-hole overlap. Press it down well.
- Fit the valve. Pierce a small hole over the valve position and push the tubeless valve through, then tighten the lock ring.
- Mount the tyre. Fit one bead fully, then most of the second, leaving a section open — or fit both beads if you'll add sealant through the valve.
- Add sealant. Either pour your measured dose in through the open section, or (cleaner) fit both beads, remove the valve core, and inject through the valve. Not sure on the amount? See our ml-per-tyre guide.
- Seat the beads. Refit the core, then inflate quickly to pop both beads into place — you'll hear them snap. A compressor or charger pump makes this far easier.
- Spread it. Drop to riding pressure, then spin and shake the wheel so the sealant coats the whole inside. Check for weeping at the bead and re-spin.
The usual snags — and fixes
- Bead won't seat? You need a fast air burst. A compressor or charger pump beats a standard track pump here.
- Air seeping at the bead? Normal at first — keep spinning; the sealant is doing its job. Because Magic Milk seals holes up to 8 mm, small setup leaks close themselves quickly.
- Losing pressure overnight? Re-seat, check the tape, and give it another spin. Most weeps stop within a day.
Get the kit together in one place: tubeless sealant, plus valves and injector. Then go ride — and forget your tyres are even there.



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